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DontTreadOnMe72 asked Can anyone help with measurements and material list for a 100 gallon plywood aquarium?

I`m considering building a 100 gal plywood aquarium. I would like it to be a long tank, maybe 72"? I already have a stand so thats not an issue. What I really need are exact measurements for the individual pieces. Also any advice about the glass and or size of glass opening would be greatly appreciated. P.S. I`m going to have the plywood cut at the store. I already have a drill and screws.

And got the following answer:

A 72" x 24" x 24" plywood aquarium would waste less material than a 100 gallon six foot tank. The measurements you use should put all the screw heads on the walls of the aquarium. If you have screw heads under the tank or on top, they collect water and can rust, even if they are stainless steel, which they should be. The general opinion is that plywood tanks become economical at about 180 gallons. I have built dozens of them up to 520 gallons. The economical way is to build several of them at once. I would fill a 2 1/2 car garage with plywood tanks under construction. If I built six tanks, I would sell four of them and recoup my material costs, but not labor time. I would also use scraps to build small, sometimes odd shaped aquariums that I always was thinking I would keep but most of the time someone would wheedle me out of them. I like two cordless drills, one for drilling, one for screws or countersinking. Otherwise switching bits takes too long. I trust myself more than I trust the lumberyard to make my cuts, but you know what is best for your case. Use 3/4" thick plywood. I really like working with MDO coated both sides plywood since it is smoother and flatter and stiffer than marine plywood and it paints better too. If you can't get MDO wholesale, then the marine plywood will do fine. Bottom: 70 1/2" x 22 1/2" Front and back: 72" x 24" Ends: 22 1/2" x 24" To avoid a twist in the final product, assembly sequence is important. Attach one end then the other. Then turn the three assembled pieces on their side so that the front can be balanced on top and fastened in place. Then flip it and attach the back the same way. Make this first attachment with 6 or 8 penny nails using just enough to get any misalignment out of the plywood. Make your counter sinks, about 2" apart on the bottom and about 2 1/2" up the sides. Then drill about 2/3's the depth of the screws. I put a bit of painters masking tape on the bit to guide me to the right depth. Now mark all the pieces so you can reassemble them in the right positions. Tap out the nails. Change those holes into screw holes. Clean everything, the room now needs to be free of sawdust and very clean. I put a bead of dock adhesive, construction glue that is graded for use on docks over fresh or salt water and is environmentally safe for fish. Reassemble everything with the glue and the screws. You may need clamps so have them on hand. At the end I put a bead of the dock adhesive on the inside seams of the tanks and use the back of a metal spoon (not your wife's good silverware) to create a smooth bead. Fill the screw holes. After everything is dry and cured, sand it as needed, everywhere lightly and in some places, until you get it smooth. Once it is dry, cut out the opening for the front glass. I am pretty sure you do not know how to safely blind cut with a circular saw, so use a sabre or jig saw, which you may have to start from a small hole drilled completely within the line drawn for the window. You will need the cut out. Saw it into L's about 2 or 3 inches wide depending on tank size. You will assemble two layers of these L's to create the top and center braces on the tanks. Each layer will be off set so the seams of the top layer are never close to the seams of the bottom layer. These L's go inside the tank not screwed on top. You can drop the layers so that they are a quarter inch below the top of the tank and then use that lip area to support a glass lid if you want. I like doing that because any moisture does not end up dripping down the outside of the tank. Clean everything again. I seal the tank with PalGard but you need a licensed paint room to use that product, so the system used by Matt Coxe in his article would work or use marine paint for below waterline of wooden boats. Materials: 3/4" marine plywood or better 2" SS countersunk head screws or top quality coated deck screws dock adhesive (example: PL4000) The frame around the glass should be 2 1/2" for your size tank. The glass should be 1/2" less than the inside dimensions. Set the tank on saw horses or stronger face down. Bed the glass in silicone leaving a quarter inch space all around. Wait a week then add a second bead filling the quarter inch space. Run that bed all around the inner seams too and smooth it with a caulking tool. In larger tanks I use the back end of an empty 10 oz silicone tube. Be sure you use aquarium grade sealant.

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