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Morgan asked How do I remove a fluorescent fixture in a drop ceiling and replace with a tile?

I need to replace about 2 dozen 2 ft. x 2 ft. U-bend Fluorescent fixtures in a commercial building with nine 2 ft. x 2 ft. LED panels. The work will be done in a drop ceiling. Regarding the nine retrofitted fixtures, I will re-wire the power so that it connects to the LED ballasts instead of the fluorescent ballast, then I will remove the fluorescent fixture entirely. For the remaining fixtures, I will need to remove the 2 ft. x 2 ft. fixtures and replace them with a ceiling tile. The current wiring is in a metal casing. The power goes from the light switch into the first fixture, then leap frogs from one fixture to the next. My questions are as follows: 1)How do I remove the 2 ft. x 2 ft. fixtures? 2)How do I keep the power connected so that the 9 fixtures that I intended to retrofit will still be able to receive power from the same light switch? 3)During the process of rewiring the connections at each of the previously removed fixtures, what do I need to do to make sure the connections are “up to code”? Are wire nuts and electrical tape sufficient? Though I am not a certified electrician, I am relatively handy. I would normally elect to hire an electrician for a project like this, but I cannot afford the $1,500 or so cost of labor. With that said, how much time do you think it will take, approximately, to remove a 2 ft. x 2 ft. fixture and replace it with a ceiling tile? Your help is much appreciated!

And got the following answer:

Probably the daisy-chained electrical connection is wired inside each light fixture. A set of wire nuts may or may not be adequate, depending on their style and local standards. If the space above the ceiling is considered "non-accessible", nuts are fine, though the wires should be mechanically bound together so that tugging elsewhere does not create exposed bare wires—either with wire ties (preferred) or knots (beware of creating bends which are too tight and compromise the wire, as well as creating hot spots if the wire capacity is limited). Otherwise, you'll have to add a junction box to enclose each connection and it should be secured to a "sound structural member"—the actual ceiling should be fine. I would expect it to take 2–4 hours to replace a dozen fixtures with either a bypassed connection and tile, or replace the fixture with another one. * * * addendum * * * Oops! Misunderstood your question. You wrote that the existing wiring is in "metal casing", which I presume means electrical conduit—light steel pipes with the conductors inside. Are there also junction boxes near each light fixture? Maybe after the fixtures are removed all you have to do is remove a short section of conduit (and its wires) from a junction box to the fixture? Plug the holes with caps available from any electrical parts supply (even Home Depot).

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