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I know this can be done, but I'm not quite sure the materials I need to do this. I think I'm going to need an inverter to convert the DC and AC power? The Hitachi subwoofer is: 117v 60Hz 150w In the cars trunk, there's an amplifier and a 12v plug. What do I need to do? Help!
And got the following answer:
Phew, you definitely need some parts...but yes, you can do this... The whole of this question comes down to the power to drive it, now and over time. The alternator makes power sure, but not at idle, and not in traffic. Therefore you must have a battery (power tank) specifically for this system or it will negatively effect your motor. To do this you need 3 things: a. DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES (the power tank) b. BATTERY ISOLATOR (the doors for the electricity) c. ADEQUATE WIRES (the pipes for the power) d. INVERTER a. Starting batteries are designed to start the motor, aka 20 seconds, measured in cold cranking amps. Deep cycle batteries are designed to give out power over time, measured in amp hours. If you get good ones, the loss in the batteries is only 10 percent. If you get bad ones, it is more like 50%. This is a tax on your engine, via the alternator...so buy AGM batteries with low Peukert coefficients. If you want to understand Peukert, click on this link... http://www.bdbatteries.com/peukert.php Basic math for battery run time...assuming good batteries 150 watts x 1.1 = 165 watts 165 watts/12 volts = 14.5 amps 100 ah battery/ 14.5 amps = 6.8 hrs http://www.bdbatteries.com/marineflyer.php?id=2 80 ah battery /14.5 amps = 5.5 hrs http://www.bdbatteries.com/marineflyer.php?id=1 Remember, if you run your batteries down 100% (100% DOD), you only get 250-300 times to play the radio. If you only run it for 1/2 that time (50% DOD) you get 1000+ times running the stereo with the same battery bank. Click on this link for documentation...but bottom line, 3x life for 2x the money... http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/graphs.asp b. Battery Isolator: The battery isolator is a set of diodes that direct the power from the alternator through one way doors to the batteries. The point of this install is to isolate the battery under the hood (to start the car) from the battery in the back (the house battery or stereo battery). Should you ever run the stereo battery all the way down, you can still start the car. This is how RVs, Boats, and every other type of mobile system, with an engine, and electronics, are wired. For more about all this look to this site. http://www.rv-batteries.com/construction.php Just go to your local parts store, and get an isolator that is rated for more amps than your alternator can make. PRETTY SIMPLE 🙂 c. Wires to Carry the POWER!!! Inevitably, folks forget they have to move the power around. No matter how nice the electronics, if the power doesn't get to them, they are worthless. For the alternator to the isolator, and isolator to the batteries, expect to use wires the size of your thumb. This will help to eliminate loss, reducing gas consumption to run the system. The frame is a big wire (for the negative side), but you MUST put big RED wires in to move the power around on the positive side. Code says less than 5% loss, and the calculators are on the bottom of this page. http://www.bdbatteries.com/wirerules.php d. Inverter to convert DC - AC power Lastly, you have to get the power right. An inverter put out AC power, at the HZ you are looking for. A simple one is a couple hundred bucks, and again can be purchased locally. Just make sure you get one that has more watt output than your stereo. AKA: A 1000 watt inverter will drive a 800 watt stereo. A 400 watt inverter will choke every time you turn that 800 watt stereo on 🙁 If you are getting a buzz from the subwoofer, you need an expensive inverter, or a cheap automotive bass tube. So go buy the inverter first, and see if that works. Then move to the next steps above. The buzz will come from the 'Modified Sine Wave' which is explained here. http://www.bdinverters.com Happy tinkering...