refrigerator thermostat temperature controller information

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Clifford asked GE Refrigerator MODEL NO. GSS20IETAWW NOT COOLING!!!!?

Already checked: 1. Compressor heats 2. both fans working and Volt checked at circuit board (both within limits) 3. Coil Heat. Metal spring in glass tube in tact (disassembled for visual inspection) 4. Thermistors iced and ohms checked (I understand [16.3K Ω ± 5%] is correct). I read: Fresh Food = 8.17K Ω Freezer = 8.15K Ω Evaporator = 8.25K Ω *All three have blackened ends, which I've been made to believe is an indicator of a bad Thermistor. The fridge was given to me after sitting outdoors for an entire year with the doors removed. Is it possible that all three thermistors, being exposed to Mississippi temperatures, went bad? And wouldn't low readings cause the fridge to overcool, not undercool? Thanks

And got the following answer:

If 16.3K Ohms is what you should be reading at 32'F / 0'C and you are reading 8K Ohms then obviously they have failed or are now out of calibration. Thermistors can be direct acting or reverse acting though. It also depends on the control circuit as well, how it was engineered. If it's direct acting lower temperatures would cause a lower resistance, reverse acting would mean lower temps cause a higher resistance. Then you have to know what the controller is doing with this signal. It may be likely that it was designed so that if it sees a loss of voltage or higher resistance across the thermistor it would fail or go into cooling. A lower resistance or higher voltage back to the control circuit may be a signal that it has reached designed thermostat set point. This would be an example where direct acting thermistors were used.

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