smoker temperature controller information

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Matthew asked How to make a meat cooler from a refridgerator?

Here's what I did: $25 used refridge/freezer. Cut out both door shelves, leave rubber seal. Detached thermostat/light/adjust knob from refridge upper wall let it hang. Cut out dividing partition from between refridge and freezer. Attached thermostat/light/adjust knob to a 2x4 and wedged into back of refridge compartment just under partition. Drilled 4 holes in top of unit into freezer compartment big enough to fit 1/8" lanyard/cable through. Swedged 4 strands 1/8" cable 12" in length. Placed 2 1"x 12"x 24" pieces of wood predrilled to match holes in top of unit on top of unit. Placed a washer on cable, ran cable through wood into refridge. made loops with cable inside of freezer large enough to run 3/4" solid steel rods through. Use bungee "S" hooks to attach rope that will hang deer/elk quarters. Set fridge freezer dials to desired coolness. I drilled 4 x 1/2" holes in door of refridge for ventilation in needed I cover them with fridge magnets when not needed. Also install thermometer

And got the following answer:

Aside from hauling out all the racks and installing a sanitary drain on the bottom (sanitary drain means the blood and fluids go out, no bugs, flies or ants can crawl up and into the cooler) - you just need to keep it at a steady 34-44 degree temperature with 80% humidity, and air flow. Nothing you can't cabbage together with a trip to the hardware store, pick up a digital thermometer with memory, and stop by the plant section at Wal*Mart and get a humidity guauge. You want a very small muffin fan to push air around on the inside - Radio Shack has them. The refer racks have to get tossed - they are plated with cadnium - wonderful heavy metal metal that resists stains .......... but the stuff leaches out into meat when in direct contact - and - becomes a toxic poison when used in a range, smoker, or BBQ! The problem with using a fridge - once you open the door all your cool air flows out immediately. If you have plenty of mass - meat - or cases or beer or water in it, this becomes less and less of a problem. The second problem - humidity control. You want 70-80% so it will pull off some moisture from the meat and allow the parts open to the air to 'Case Up'. Case up is when they develope a hard layer on the outside - that traps the moisture inside the meat keeping it from becoming dry ........ and prevent bacteria from getting to the meat. Choose your fridge wisely. Bigger is better. And because it needs to be clean as Kleenex and bleached down well - the fewer nooks and crannies it has, all the better. You can easily upgrade the thing to digital control of the temperature. They make lots of digital temperature controls for folks who have expensive snakes and reptiles - set the fridge to 'Coldest', insert the temperature probe, and plug the fridge into the controller. Or, you can buy a home digital thermostate and insert it into the fridge - the fridge compressor works on one pair of wires, so does the home thermostats - just check what the switch in the fridge is rated for, and get a thermostate that is rated the same or better. Depending on where this thing is - garage or in your house - an exhaust vent would be a nice touch. This way you could vent some of air a few minutes per hour when you add new meat to it - it would be a help to keep the humidity constrant. There are lots of info and forums online for this. Just remember to use only food safe screws (stainless) and plastic parts or plastic coated parts as possible. Now - if you are making sausage at home - like dry cure - be aware you need to import the right bacteria. This means buying a high quality salami that has been dry cured and hanging it with your meats to transfer 'good' bacteria. Good Luck I just read your new details. All that wood - has to go. If it treated - it will make you sick. If it is untreated - it will become a breeding ground for bacteria and probably kill you. Unless all that wood is sealed - with some kind of sealant like spar varnish or bar top sealer - it's a big problem. All your cables and hardware needs to be stainless - galvanized will leach zinc - and that will never be good for you. Now - in the Trim Section of Home Depot - you should be able to find plenty of white plastic 1"x2" that you can double up. It's used for both indoor and outdoor wall and dato trim pieces. The stuff doesn't cost much at all. It's actually fiberglass on the inside with a plastic outside. Just hot glue any holes you make after inserting a screw or rod.

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