The Best ranco electronic temperature control for sale

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I am attempting to replace my defrost control board myself after an HVAC expert told me that was my problem. I purchased a new board and began to install it. Until I figured out that the replacement board was missing the spot labeled DFST there are two wires going into that category. Is there another place on the board i should look to plug them into. York Heat Pump Model# YHJD42S41S4A Serial# W1G0142308 The DFST terminal is also labeled T' Stat on the original one. There are two Blue wires leading into them. There are no such spot to plug them into the new replacement part. Although there is other terminals that are not being used.

And got the following answer:

I am quite familiar with your problem and from what I have seen you have one of two problems, possibly two. In the normal course of making heat your heat-pump gets cold and WILL make ice and freeze depending on outdoor temperature and humidity. The textbooks all say that most ice production is produced at 40 degrees F. but this will vary with actual humidity and the temperature of the coils when it is raining, snowing or sleeting the problem will aggravate itself tremendously. When it is very dry you will not get any ice. To get rid of this ice, most heat-pumps have a time-temperature-defrost system. This system uses a timer; either a clock motor or an electronic timer. The timer will have mechanical stops or electronic jumpers with times at 30, 60, 50, 70 and 90 ect. minutes depending on manufacturer of the defrost equipment. Some systems use a pressure switch to detect that the coils have become stopped up with ice. I have seen this system on a 10 Ton York unit but it is not very common on residential equipment. I have also added 300 PSI pressure switches to units to problem units to assure a proper termination. Defrost Guidelines: The unit must defrost regularly when icing conditions occur and long enough to get rid of the ice and short enough to not waste energy. There is usually a best place for the sensor or thermostat on the outdoor coil just after the metering. Some manufactures have a tubing stub for the thermostat and others a well. If you remove or change the sensor try to mark where it was. Failure to place it in the correct place will cause the unit to either not defrost or the cycle will be too short and the unit will build ice anyway. Place it at the wrong end of the coil and you will get no defrost activity. When the compressor runs the clock runs and time is accumulated. At the selected intervals the clock will energize a defrost event through a thermostat or a sensing bulb, If the temperature of the sensor (refrigerant filled sensing bulb on the Ranco E-15) is below 28 degrees F. the defrost will take place. When the temperature of the sensor rises to 50 or 70 degrees F Or 10 minutes elapses the defrost cycle is terminated. A typical defrost cycle should be from 1.5-3 minutes.

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