The Best temperature controller switch for sale

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Maya asked What do you use to control heat mat temperatures?

I have a zoo med heat mat for my leopard gecko right now its plugged into a surge protector, but i'm wondering what to control the temperatures with to make it stay at exactly 92 degrees. Are there any cheap temperature controller thingys that could help me with this? also would those ten dollar light dimmers at home depot work for that or should i invest in a reptile specific thermostat i'm really confused right now so any answers would be very helpful.

And got the following answer:

92ºF is WAY TOO HOT for a leopard gecko !!! Should be 75ºF in cool end of cage (and at night) Around 85ºF during the day at the hot end, near heat mat. As a heat mat is not a piece of delicate electronic equipment you do not need the surge protector ! What you need is a simple, fairly cheap, reptile thermostat such as this one: The heat mat should be at least 30% of the length of the vivarium Mount it on the side or rear wall of the cage. Connect it to the thermostat and set it to 75ºF Place the probe in the opposite end of the cage, 2" off the ground. Leave the mat & thermostat switched on all the time - this will ensure the temperature at the cool end of the vivarium never goes below 75ºF. For extra day-time heat & light see the bottom of the following section: FEEDING LEOPARD GECKOS Feed your gecko every evening, after you have switched the lights off, with as much live food as it will eat in ½ hour. Don't limit the food to just crickets or mealworms. Their diet should contain a mixture of: * Brown crickets (never black) * Wax worms * Small cockroaches * Hornworms [USA] * Butterworms [USA] * Mealworms * Locust hoppers * Flies [hatched from fishing maggots] * Phoenix® [Calci-] worms * Small silkworms * Small earthworms [nightcrawlers] You need to judge the size of each live food to offer by the size of the head & mouth and the total length of the gecko. You need to judge the size of each type live food to offer by the size of the head & mouth and the total length of the Beardie. ALL food should be heavily coated in calcium carbonate 5-days-a-week and a reptile multi-vitamin powder the other 2 days Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamin with Beta Carotene [UK & USA] Rep-Cal Calcium without D3 [UK & USA] Exo Terra Calcium (without D3) [UK & USA] Cricket Gut-Load Powder [USA] . Despite what many people say & write on the Internet, LG’s do need UV light. Install a 26 watt, 10% compact UV fluorescent lamp such as Over the sleeping area of your gecko. In the wild LG’s sleep with their tails exposed to the sun to get the UV light / vitamin D3 that they need.. ================================================================ MOSS BOX OR HUMID HIDE Get a plastic Tupperware-type box with lid that is 1½ times the length of your lizard and wide enough for it to turn around in easily. Cut (or melt) a circular hole in the short side, big enough for the lizard to comfortably climb through. Obtain some Zoo Med NZ Sphagnum Moss (or similar) Dampen very well and put enough in the box to cover the floor and ½-fill it. Replace the lid and put the box at the cool end of the vivarium. Now gently push your lizard through the hole so it can see what is inside. Spray the moss daily so as to keep it very moist but not so wet that water pools in the box. Replace the moss every 4 – 6 months or when it starts to rot. If you want something more attractive buy something like an Exo Terra PT 2866 Gecko Cave: and use the moss as described above. Don’t get a “snake cave” with a small top opening as the lizard will not use it !

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